Southern Shoalhaven

A year or so, M and I stayed down in Berry for a few days, and explored a number of the hidden gems of the area. Last week we took the opportunity to go and check out the southernmost wineries of the region, near Mollymook and Ulladulla. Having the good fortune to be accommodated in a lovely cottage on the grounds of Cupitt's, one of the newer wineries, we were well placed for our tasting excursions. Cupitt's is only a couple of years old, and still make plenty of wines with grapes from other regions. The highlights for me were the locally-grown Merlot, which was huge and fruity, and the Viognier, from Victorian grapes, which was totally sold out, except at the restaurant. We ate there, so experienced the rich palate of tropical fruit and bitter taste of regret that we couldn't bring any home. We did buy some of the Verdelho, which was fantastic; in fact all of the wineries in the region made amazing Verdelho, at least to my taste, so there must be something in the terroir which suits the variety - making a nice break from endless Chambourcin, I suppose.

Please don't get the idea that I am disparaging Chambourcin. In fact I quite like it in all its purpleness. It's in use so much in the Shoalhaven because of its hardiness and resistance to disease, but it makes a lovely drop for all that. My now-favourite winery in the region, Fern Gully (a wee family run, hand operated affair) makes a Chambourcin rosé which is to die for - far and away my favourite rosé ever. Aromas of wild strawberries, and a delicious crisp fruity palate, with none of those flavours of slightly overripe fruit which once put me off the style. They only sell at cellar door, so I'm going to have to make another trip down eventually.

Further south still lies the last winery of the region, Bawley Vale Estate. They are a little bigger, and have a nice selection of wines, including an interesting blend of Chambourcin, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, which produces a nice fruity red with some earthy undertones. My favourite here though is the Chambourcin, which is one of the best in the region, with briar fruit, plum and cinnamon. They also make a great Verdelho, of course!

With the excuse of a swim at glorious Murray's Beach on Jervis Bay, we also visited Kladis Estate in Wandandian, more than half of the way back towards Nowra. This winery is much bigger, with a dazzling array of wines, including a sparkling red. The most interesting for me was the Moschato "Ruby", which uses Grenache skins to impart colour to a lightly effervescent wine with an aromatic nose and a sweet apricot palate. I love coming across a type of wine I haven't seen before, and it's a bonus when it's this good.

More and more I think that the Shoalhaven is underrated and under-represented. There are some terrific wines being made down there, and I encourage you to get out and try some of them. I don't think you'll be disappointed.