Southern Shoalhaven

A year or so, M and I stayed down in Berry for a few days, and explored a number of the hidden gems of the area. Last week we took the opportunity to go and check out the southernmost wineries of the region, near Mollymook and Ulladulla. Having the good fortune to be accommodated in a lovely cottage on the grounds of Cupitt's, one of the newer wineries, we were well placed for our tasting excursions. Cupitt's is only a couple of years old, and still make plenty of wines with grapes from other regions. The highlights for me were the locally-grown Merlot, which was huge and fruity, and the Viognier, from Victorian grapes, which was totally sold out, except at the restaurant. We ate there, so experienced the rich palate of tropical fruit and bitter taste of regret that we couldn't bring any home. We did buy some of the Verdelho, which was fantastic; in fact all of the wineries in the region made amazing Verdelho, at least to my taste, so there must be something in the terroir which suits the variety - making a nice break from endless Chambourcin, I suppose.

Please don't get the idea that I am disparaging Chambourcin. In fact I quite like it in all its purpleness. It's in use so much in the Shoalhaven because of its hardiness and resistance to disease, but it makes a lovely drop for all that. My now-favourite winery in the region, Fern Gully (a wee family run, hand operated affair) makes a Chambourcin rosé which is to die for - far and away my favourite rosé ever. Aromas of wild strawberries, and a delicious crisp fruity palate, with none of those flavours of slightly overripe fruit which once put me off the style. They only sell at cellar door, so I'm going to have to make another trip down eventually.

Further south still lies the last winery of the region, Bawley Vale Estate. They are a little bigger, and have a nice selection of wines, including an interesting blend of Chambourcin, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, which produces a nice fruity red with some earthy undertones. My favourite here though is the Chambourcin, which is one of the best in the region, with briar fruit, plum and cinnamon. They also make a great Verdelho, of course!

With the excuse of a swim at glorious Murray's Beach on Jervis Bay, we also visited Kladis Estate in Wandandian, more than half of the way back towards Nowra. This winery is much bigger, with a dazzling array of wines, including a sparkling red. The most interesting for me was the Moschato "Ruby", which uses Grenache skins to impart colour to a lightly effervescent wine with an aromatic nose and a sweet apricot palate. I love coming across a type of wine I haven't seen before, and it's a bonus when it's this good.

More and more I think that the Shoalhaven is underrated and under-represented. There are some terrific wines being made down there, and I encourage you to get out and try some of them. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Arrowsmith Pinot Gris

Yes, another Pinot Gris review, despite the risk of this blog becoming horribly repetitive and predictable. Pinot Gris has had a surge in popularity recently for some reason, and ever the social conformist I have ridden that wave. In fact, I bought an entire case of this wine on spec (from an online auction site, for a pittance). A risky move, I will admit, but considering the cost, it paid off and provided some easy drinking over the last couple of months.

This wine is produced by a negociant, and gives no information on where the actual grapes are sourced, but indications point to South Australia. It has a nice lemony colour, and the nose is quite aromatic, with plenty of esters and some ripe apple. The palate is perhaps not as complex as it could be, but there are some nice honey and pineapple flavours, and a nice nuttiness paired with the rich chewy texture. The aftertaste is warm and a bit alcoholic, which I like. All in all it goes down very easily, and would pair well with mildly spicy seafood - something to complement the slightly cloying texture.

Price: Theoretically about $22 per bottle, but I paid a lot less.

Food: Singapore chilli prawns.

Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris

Where the Innocent Bystander cellar door now sits, on the main street of Healesville, there used to be a large vacant lot, used as parking for Mackenzie buses. I know because I grew up there. As it was put up after I had moved away, at first the edifice aroused suspicion in me, but having tasted the wines they produce I now simply wish they had built earlier.

This is a terrific example of a Pinot Gris, and M and I savoured every drop. A sparkling, lemony colour gives hints of the aromas in the nose, which is crisp and minerally, with sharp citrus notes. There is a nice cashew nuttiness to the palate, with some nectar/apricot undertones, but it is very fresh and acidic, with a lingering spicy warmth.

Probably one of the better Pinot Gris I have had.

Price: $20 a bottle

Food: Lovely on a warm afternoon with a crottin

Di Giorgio "Lucindale" Cab Sav

The Limestone coast in South Australia provides outstanding growing conditions for red grape varieties, typically developing rich full flavours thanks to the long ripening period. When you pick up a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon from the region, you know what to expect; rich, fruity, tannic wine that fills the mouth almost chewily.

Di Giorgio doesn't disappoint with their Lucindale Cab Sav, which is a typical example of the style. Leading with blackcurrant and violet aromas, the mouthfeel is full of velvety tannins and chewy softness. Blueberry flavours are enhanced by the hint of mint characteristic to the area, and maturation in French and American oak (barriques, not chips) gives a dusky cigar-box overtone.

This wine will become even more savoury with cellaring, but it's a perfectly good drink-now wine, and I wouldn't hesitate to open another bottle.

Price: $22 a bottle, but you can get it cheaper.

Food: Pair it with spicy Moroccan lamb and a brown lentil, tomato and green bean salad.